The pattern templates for the Christmas Decorations can be downloaded from the SHOP just select free patterns from the Menu.
Here is the tutorial for the free pattern download for four quick and easy to make Christmas tree ornaments. Tree ornaments can be expensive to buy and it is fun to make your own; mine didn’t cost me anything as I simply used materials that I already had left over from previous projects.
To Make the Christmas Ornaments.
You will need some pieces of felt, print fabrics, polyester wadding, assorted buttons, lace, braids or ribbons, beads to thread, bells, sewing threads, fine string or thick thread for stringing beads. Tools required include pinking shears, plain scissors, regular size hand sewing needle and large eyed needle for threading beads, pins, craft glue, sewing machine and iron. You can also add stick-on sparkly thingies to catch the light and make them twinkle.
I have made my ornaments the quick way sewing by machine but if you are an experienced crafter you might like to sew them by hand. I have used pinking shears to cut out for machine sewing but if you are over-stitching the edges by hand cut them out with plain shears.
The tutorial shows how to construct the star and string 3 together with beads to make a long hanging ornament. All the ornaments are basically constructed in the same way so follow the star tutorial to make the boot, bell and ginger bread man. Any trimmings that need to be machine stitched onto the backs or fronts of the shapes is best done before joining at the edges. Hand sewing or gluing buttons, beads etc should be done after the shapes are sewn together with the wadding inside. For the single ornaments a hanging loop can be stitched in when sewing the parts together.
Making the ornaments:
Print and cut out the templates; for the stars cut out both sizes.
The photo shows the basic components for one ornament: felt front piece, print centerpiece, backing print, wadding, centre buttons and string for hanging.
Using pinking shears cut the large star in felt and backing print and use the small star to cut the print fabric for the centre front and the wadding.
Below are all the parts needed for the 3 star ornament, plus you will also need to add 3 more buttons for the backs of the stars.
Sew the smaller centre print star shape onto the larger felt shape using a plain machine stitch.
Make a sandwich with the backing, wadding and felt, pin to hold and stitch together around the edges.
3/ Pin the template in place and using sharp scissors trim the shapes exactly to the template outline. Do this for all the applique parts.
4/ Work out the position for the applique. For my santa sack I placed it in the centre and 3-4cm / 1-1/4″ — 1-1/2″ up from the bottom edge. Use the printed illustration as a guide to layout all the parts correctly.
5/ Fuse the applique parts to the fabric. Peel the paper backing off all the parts. The sequence for fusing on the parts is: ears, face, antlers, nose and eyes. The face should just slightly overlap the ends of the ears and the antlers should overlap the top of the head. Fuse the two ear parts in place first then continue the sequence using a hot iron and pressing cloth. You will need to apply some pressure with the iron.
If you are going to stitch the applique do this now. It is now ready to complete sewing the santa sack. 6/ Make the bowtie. Cut a strip of fabric 8cm X 20cm / 3-1/2″ X 8″ [ I cut the stripes on bias]. Press the edges to the centre and fold over to form a bow shape. Use a small rectangle of fabric for the keeper and wrap this around the bow and stitch by hand. It’s best to attach the bowtie after the bag is sewn together.
2/ Applique: if using the applique position so that it will be in the centre of one side of the bag and closer to the bottom than top.
3/ Sew the border to the bottom and the facing to the top edge. Overlock the border seam. Press both seams.
Press the edge of the facing under 1cm / 3/8″. Then turn the facing under and press flat.
4/ Sew the bag together: fold the whole thing in half or if in two parts place together and stitch to form a bag along the sides and bottom. Overlock or use a zigzag stitch to finish the seams. Turn the bag out and press the seams flat.
5/ Stitch the facing down: fold the facing to the inside; this should be easy because you have already pressed it under before stitching the bag seams. Press the facing flat, pin to hold and stitch the edge down.
Turn out and give a final press. 6/ Make the fabric tie: I cut my tie 90cm X 8cm [ 36″ X 3″]. It can be any width or length depending on how large a bow when tied up. Make the tie in the same way as for a belt or strap. Fold the tie in half and stitch with a very narrow seam, leaving a small gap at the centre to turn through. Turn out and press. 
Stitch the centre of the tie to the side seam level with the bottom edge of the facing.
Alternately use a handle or loop to hang the Santa Sacks up.
Stitch on Rudolph’s bowtie and it’s finished.
Below are two finished bags made in the same way but in different sizes and with wider borders and larger bow ties. The left hand sack does not have a separate contrast facing but I have cut the main bag section long enough to include a deep 7cm/3″ hem.
The Play Pants pattern is a basic pant pattern with a patch pocket in sizes to fit kids from 1 to 10 years old. The pattern includes a simple easy to make Christmas tree appliqué to use on a T shirt or skirt. The pattern is suitable for boys and girls and is ideal for pyjama pants. The basic pattern can be altered to have a cuff or ruffle on the hem. The length can also be adjusted to shorts or 3/4 length pants. This is a very easy pattern, great for beginners.
Trace out a paper pattern for the size you want following the colour code. You can do this by tracing with a tracing wheel onto plain paper or using see-through baking paper and trace with a pencil. I think it’s easier to use a tracing wheel so invest in one of these. Tracing the pattern out means you can keep the master pattern intact for future use. Please note that all cutting out instructions, seam and hem allowances and grain lines are marked on the pattern.
It’s very important to get the grain straight when cutting long pants; the best way to get the perfect straight grain is to fold the pattern in half placing the hem edge perfectly square and equal and then press a cease in along the full length of the leg to get the grain line then mark with a pen and ruler.
Rule a line for the hem turnings and the waist turning these are both 4cm/11/2” wide. Don’t forget the pocket pattern.
Now the basic pattern is ready to use.
NOTE: If you would like a ruffled hem follow the instructions as for the cuff but use a single width not double [e.g 38cm x 10cm] and add extra length for gathering — about half to two thirds — so total pattern dimension of approx 57cm x 10cm for a size 2. Label “Cut 2”. OK! this is what you should end up with ———
Make the Pants: sew the side seams together, overlock and press. Press the waist casing under so you can see how wide the waist band will be.
Place the pockets on the front at least 6 cm below the finished top edge at the side seam position and about 1cm in from the side seam, pin and sew in place. The pocket position will vary with the size so just make sure it looks balanced.
Sew the centre front and centre back seams, overlock and press. Sew the inside leg seams together matching at the crotch seam, overlock and press.
Pockets stitched on and seams all sewn together.
Attach the cuffs: press each cuff in half lengthways, then check that the cuff and leg measure exactly the same and make any necessary adjustments. Sew the cuff seam and press open.
Fold the cuff in half again and pin to the right side of the leg with the cuff seam at the inside leg seam. Sew in place, overlock and press. On the outside sew a row of topstitching along the seam to hold the seam flat on the underside.
Make the waist casing: The total width of the casing allowance is 4cm/11/2”. For a neat finish press the edge of the casing under 1cm/3/8” and turn casing under along the finished edge line [you pressed this under earlier]. Sew the casing down and sew a row of stitching along the top edge to give a neater finish after the elastic is inserted.
FINISHED!
Next cut a piece of iron-on backing for each shape and iron this onto the back of the fabric shapes; make sure to use a light pressing cloth or some tissue paper to protect the iron and ironing board. Now each shape will have a paper surface on the back. Use the templates and draw the shapes onto the paper backing, cut them out carefully with sharp scissors or pinking shears. If you are hand sewing it’s best to cut with plain scissors.
Carefully peel the paper backing off and layout the design overlapping each piece a small amount [about 6mm/¼”]; line everything up as though you are following a centre line so you have tree trunk, bottom layer, middle layer, top layer and star. It’s best to do this on the ironing board so there’s no need to move once it’s set in place. When you are happy with the way it looks press it on firmly.
Now sew around all the edges; use a plain stitch if the edges are pinked or a zigzag if they are plain. To keep it neat stitch each section separately changing thread colour if necessary. Pull the thread ends through to the underside and tie off.
Makes a cute set of Christmas night pyjamas.
Felicity Sewing Patterns Blog 