Christmas Ornaments free pattern and tutorial

Free pattern templates and tutorial for Christmas ornaments by Felicity Patterns

The pattern templates for the Christmas Decorations can be downloaded from the SHOP just select free patterns from the Menu.

Here is the tutorial for the free pattern download for four quick and easy to make Christmas tree ornaments. Tree ornaments can be expensive to buy and it is fun to make your own; mine didn’t cost me anything as I simply used materials that I already had left over from previous projects.

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To Make the Christmas Ornaments.

You will need some pieces of felt, print fabrics, polyester wadding, assorted buttons, lace, braids or ribbons, beads to thread, bells, sewing threads, fine string or thick thread for stringing beads. Tools required include pinking shears, plain scissors, regular size hand sewing needle and large eyed needle for threading beads, pins, craft glue, sewing machine and iron. You can also add stick-on sparkly thingies to catch the light and make them twinkle.

I have made my ornaments the quick way sewing by machine but if you are an experienced crafter you might like to sew them by hand. I have used pinking shears to cut out for machine sewing but if you are over-stitching the edges by hand cut them out with plain shears.

The tutorial shows how to construct the star and string 3 together with beads to make a long hanging ornament. All the ornaments are basically constructed in the same way so follow the star tutorial to make the boot, bell and ginger bread man. Any trimmings that need to be machine stitched onto the backs or fronts of the shapes is best done before joining at the edges. Hand sewing or gluing buttons, beads etc should be done after the shapes are sewn together with the wadding inside. For the single ornaments a hanging loop can be stitched in when sewing the parts together.

Making the ornaments:

Print and cut out the templates; for the stars cut out both sizes.

The photo shows the basic components for one ornament: felt front piece, print centerpiece, backing print, wadding, centre buttons and string for hanging.

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Using pinking shears cut the large star in felt and backing print and use the small star to cut the print fabric for the centre front and the wadding.

Below are all the parts needed for the 3 star ornament, plus you will also need to add 3 more buttons for the backs of the stars.

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Sew the smaller centre print star shape onto the larger felt shape using a plain machine stitch.

Make a sandwich with the backing, wadding and felt, pin to hold and stitch together around the edges.

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 When all 3 stars are sewn together lay out so there is a point at the top, space about 5cm/2″ apart. Roll out a length of heavy thread for the beading, long enough to have a tail at the bottom and a hanging loop at the top. Count out an equal number of beads for the spaces between the stars and enough for the tail and loop.
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 Start threading by tying a large tinkle bell to the end of the tail thread, thread the top end through a large eyed needle and thread the tail-end beads on from the top end.
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 When the tail section is threaded insert the needle into the bottom of the first star and push through the inside and out at the top point of the star. Thread the next section of beads including a smaller bell and so on till each section is done.
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 When you get to the top loop, thread the last lot of beads finishing with a tinkle bell and tie the thread of in a large loop.
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To finish hand stitch a button to the centre front and back of each star.
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Back side of stars
Xmas ornaments
Front side of stars
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All the ornaments are made using the same method as for the star.

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Free Pattern! Cross-back Apron for Mothers and Daugthers

Free Pattern. Easy to make the Cross-Back Apron for adults and children by Felicity Sewing Patterns

Welcome to the Cross-back Apron free pattern download. To get your free pattern download go to the SHOP, select Free Patterns from the Menu and put the pattern in your cart and “buy” it for free.

In the pattern file you will find two separate patterns for the adult and kids aprons; please print each pattern separately to save confusion. This file contains only the patterns and instruction sheets for printing and assembling the patterns the sewing tutorial is posted here on Felicity Sewing Patterns BLOG.

Crossback-Apron-front-back

Description: This is by far my favourite apron style; it covers everything and is easy to slip in and out of with no ties just simple cross-over straps. It has a large pocket at the front which also gives extra reinforcement just where the apron gets the most wear. For the apprentice chef in your life there is the kid’s version which is identical to the adult shape but comes in sizes to fit kids aged from about 4 to 10 years old. The fit is very flexible and getting it just right depends on adjusting the finished strap length to your perfect fit. The Apron is very quick and easy to sew, a perfect project for beginners.

Sizes: Both patterns come in sizes small, medium and large. Check the size chart for a guide to the best size to use. Please note the adult pattern must have extra length added to the bottom edge.

Fabric: I prefer to use a heavier weight cotton or poly/cotton for a kitchen apron so a cotton drill or ducking is suitable; denim is also a great choice. I have used a cotton furnishing fabric which has the added benefit of being a wider width at 124cm/49”. See the fabric chart for amount required. The only other thing you need is matching thread.

Crossback Apron Size Charts

 

Follow the instructions in the pattern file to print and assemble the patterns and check the size chart for the best size to use. The size chart gives a guide to the approximate body size for the small, medium and large sizes for both kids and adults.

Cutting Guide:

The adult pattern must have extra length added to the bottom edge: I added an extra 16cm/6 ½” inches to my medium size apron so that it reaches just past knee level.

The pattern is easy to adjust if required; length can be added or reduced at the hem and the sides can be extended for more wrap at the back. Extra length is included on the strap pattern so that you can adjust the straps to suit your own height. It is best to trace the pocket patterns out as full pieces. Follow the cutting instructions on the pattern. When laying up the patterns to cut out check that the fabric print is not a one-way print if this is the case you must place all the patterns in the same direction. Make sure to clip the notch marks for the hem turnings. If you are tall it might be wise to add extra length to the straps as this can be adjusted later.

I had to join two photos to get the whole layout in.

Layout

 

Everything cut out and ready to sew for adult & child aprons in size medium.

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Sew the Apron

Before you start mark the centre top position for the pocket. On the centre front fold edge of the apron pattern you will see a notch mark for this so put a chalk mark or pins to mark this point on your apron front.

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1/ All the edges except the bib have a 2cm/3/4” hem allowance. Press the hem allowances under with a double turn using a fairly hot iron depending on the fabric you are working with.

Start with the curved side edges and press under 1cm then turn again 1cm and press. The bias grain on the edge will allow the hem to turn without buckling but take care not to over stretch. Sew down. Next press the bib hem edge under 1cm and again 2.5cm and stitch down.

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Go to the bottom hem edge and press this under 1cm and 1cm then do the same on the side edges. You should have a double turned hem all around with a finished width of 1cm/3/8”. Sew down all around.

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2/ Make the pocket.

Press a 1cm/3/8”single turning on the sides and bottom edges, then press the top edge under 1cm/3/8” and again 2cm. Stitch the top hem down. You can overlock the edges but I didn’t bother.

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Position the pocket on the front of the apron using the centre point you marked earlier. Place the centre of the pocket’s top edge at the mark and ensure that the pocket is perfectly squared up to the hem and side edges of the apron. Pin to hold in place and stitch on close to the edges making a couple of double reverses at the two top corners for extra strength. The pocket can be divided into two by sewing through the centre from top to bottom. The kid’s pocket is best left as one large pocket.

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3/ Make the straps.

Fold the straps in half with wrong side out and sew along the length, leave a 3cm gap midway to turn out; sew across both ends. The seam allowance is 6mm/1/4”. Turn the straps through and press to smooth out the seams. Hand stitch the gap closed or sew a top stitch around the entire strap close enough to the edge to seal the gap.

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Attach the strap ends to each side of the front bib stitching securely to hold. There is a 2cm/3/4″ allowance for this.

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Cross the straps over and pin the ends to the back corners of the apron. The straps should be longer than required so start by pinning them so that there is about 4cm/1 ½” excess.

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Now it is best to try the apron on to be sure to get the correct strap length for your height. To get the correct fit the bib should be fairly high on the chest and the apron should fall and wrap smoothly around the hips without any dragging or excessive gape at the curved side edges although there will be some gape here as there are no darts to shape the edge to the body. Take a close look at the finished photos to see how it should look. If the back of the apron is swinging forward the straps are too long and if the back is pulling up or the sides are gaping a lot then the straps are too short. Don’t make the straps too short or  it will be difficult to get the apron on and off.

Correct strap length. = minimal gapping and no swinging or dragging.

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If you are making for gifts or to sell then attach the strap with a 2cm allowance at the front and with an excess of 4cm/1 ½” at the back.

It is also possible to make adjustable straps by using a slide buckle attached at the front bib. Add extra length to the straps for this.

I hope you all enjoy your aprons! I love mine and plan to make more for friends and family.

Crossback Apron front back

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Santa Sack Sewing Tutorial and Free Applique

Christmas Santa Sack sewing tutorial plus applique design by Felicity Patterns

You can download the Santa Sack tutorial pdf file including the Rudolph applique template from the SHOP go to the Free Patterns shop section on the Menu. The tutorial can be viewed here on the Blog page.

A santa sack can be made any size and with a combination of fabrics plus there is the new free ‘Rudolph’ applique that can also be added to make a fun looking santa sack. The applique can be used in a multitude of ways e.g. on clothing, aprons, cushions, bags etc.

I have made my sacks using two contrasting fabrics but you can make them all in one fabric or using multiple combinations. You can also add braid trims, bells, bows or anything you fancy. I’ve made three sacks to demonstrate; one version has the applique.

3 Santa Sacks smaller

MAKE THE RUDOLPH APPLIQUE

The Rudolph applique comes in two sizes but it can be altered to any size by using the photo copy function on a printer to reduce or enlarge the parts.

MATERIALS REQUIRED TO MAKE THE APPLIQUE

1/ Print out the template pages from the pdf file. Choose the most appropriate size to use.

2/ Fabric in small quantities for the component parts: best fabrics to use are wool felt or solid cottons since they will need to take a hot iron to fuse the applique. Check the template and the photos to see what you will need. I used wool felt for the main parts and added some cotton stripe to the inner ears and for the bow tie. You can use plastic goggle eyes if you prefer.

3/ Applique adhesive backing; about 20cm/ 8″ square. You can buy this at fabric and craft stores.

4/ Printer, sharp scissors, an iron and pressing cloth, a needle and thread, pins.

5/ Cut out the parts for the santa sack as required and press smooth. See below for cutting out and making the santa sacks.

I did not stitch my applique onto the bag as I would have done if I was applying it to clothing where it would get a lot of wear and washing. to see how to stitch an applique by machine take a look at the DUCKIE SKIRT TUTORIAL on this blog page. The other option if you like a handcrafted finish is to attach it with a fine hand stitched blanket stitch around the edges.

1/ Print out the template.

12/ Roughly cutout the shapes in fabric and adhesive backing. Fuse the fabric [felt] and adhesive with a hot iron. Use a pressing cloth to protect the iron.

23/ Pin the template in place and using sharp scissors trim the shapes exactly to the template outline. Do this for all the applique parts.

34/ Work out the position for the applique. For my santa sack I placed it in the centre and 3-4cm / 1-1/4″ — 1-1/2″ up from the bottom edge. Use the printed illustration as a guide to layout all the parts correctly.6 position5/ Fuse the applique parts to the fabric. Peel the paper backing off all the parts. The sequence for fusing on the parts is: ears, face, antlers, nose and eyes. The face should just slightly overlap the ends of the ears and the antlers should overlap the top of the head. Fuse the two ear parts in place first then continue the sequence using a hot iron and pressing cloth. You will need to apply some pressure with the iron.
710If you are going to stitch the applique do this now. It is now ready to complete sewing the santa sack.                                                                                                                                           6/ Make the bowtie. Cut a strip of fabric 8cm X 20cm / 3-1/2″ X 8″ [ I cut the stripes on bias]. Press the edges to the centre and fold over to form a bow shape. Use a small rectangle of fabric for the keeper and wrap this around the bow and stitch by hand. It’s best to attach the bowtie after the bag is sewn together.1617

 

 

MAKE THE SANTA SACKS  The Santa Sacks can be made any size or shape depending on what you want to fill them with: large enough to stuff with toys or small and delicate, just the right size for a bottle of perfume, a jewelry box or a mobile phone. The basic sack is a simple rectangle of fabric sewn together to form a bag with a facing or a deep hem allowance on the top opening. I have made all my bags using two prints but you can vary this to suit. I have added ties to all my bags.

 

 

 MATERIALS REQUIRED.

1/ Fabric: the amount will depend on the size of the bag so it’s best to work out the overall finished size of the sack first. It’s a good idea to draw this out on paper and then devide it up for a border or whatever combination of fabrics you want to use. Remember to add seam allowances to panels or borders. Fat quarters can work well for the sacks. If you want to make fabric ties include enough for these depending on the width and length of the finished tie.

2/ Thread for sewing.

3/ Trims: optional: add braid or ribbon trims or other decorative effects. Note: you can make the ties or handles using the fabric as I have done or use tape or ribbon instead.

4/ Sewing machine, scissors, pins, tape measure/ruler, iron, paper.

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1/ Cut out the sack: I had large enough pieces of fabric to cut my bag in one continuous piece but it can be cut in two parts as in a back and front. The overall finished size of this bag is 50cm high X 40cm wide [approx. 20″ X 16″]. The finished width must be doubled when cutting all in one piece and seam allowances added. I divided the length for a contrast border 8cm / 3″ wide. The facing is 7cm / 2-3/4″  wide or it can be a little wider for a large bag. Alternately allow for a deep hem on the top if you don’t want a contrast facing.fabric parts2/ Applique: if using the applique position so that it will be in the centre of one side of the bag and closer to the bottom than top.position3/ Sew the border to the bottom and the facing to the top edge. Overlock the border seam. Press both seams.11Press the edge of the facing under 1cm / 3/8″. Then turn the facing under and press flat.124/ Sew the bag together: fold the whole thing in half or if in two parts place together and stitch to form a bag along the sides and bottom. Overlock or use a zigzag stitch to finish the seams. Turn the bag out and press the seams flat.135/ Stitch the facing down: fold the facing to the inside; this should be easy because you have already pressed it under before stitching the bag seams. Press the facing flat, pin to hold and stitch the edge down.14Turn out and give a final press.                                                                                                             6/ Make the fabric tie: I cut my tie 90cm X 8cm [ 36″ X 3″]. It can be any width or length depending on how large a bow when tied up. Make the tie in the same way as for a belt or strap. Fold the tie in half and stitch with a very narrow seam, leaving a small gap at the centre to turn through. Turn out and press. 19Stitch the centre of the tie to the side seam level with the bottom edge of the facing.bow tieAlternately use a handle or loop to hang the Santa Sacks up.loophandleStitch on Rudolph’s bowtie and it’s finished.finishedBelow are two finished bags made in the same way but in different sizes and with wider borders and larger bow ties. The left hand sack does not have a separate contrast facing but I have cut the main bag section long enough to include a deep 7cm/3″ hem.Santa sacks variationsMERRY CHRISTMAS!scroll

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sewing Tutorial for the Play Pants free pattern with bonus Christmas tree applique.

Get your FREE PATTERN and see how to make these cute and easy kids pants plus XmasTree applique.

Get your FREE PATTERN and see how to  make these cute and easy kids pants. Go to the Shop and look in the ‘Free Patterns’ shop section — Play Pants Free Pattern or click here Free Pattern — just add the pattern to the cart and ‘buy’ it for free. Then view the sewing tutorial here to see how to sew the pants.                                                                      

When you get your free pattern please leave a Comment in the box at the end of the sewing tutorial.Free Pattern blog post Felicity Sewing Patterns Play Pants kids sewing patternThe Play Pants pattern is a basic pant pattern with a patch pocket in sizes to fit kids from 1 to 10 years old. The pattern includes a simple easy to make Christmas tree appliqué to use on a T shirt or skirt. The pattern is suitable for boys and girls and is ideal for pyjama pants. The basic pattern can be altered to have a cuff or ruffle on the hem. The length can also be adjusted to shorts or 3/4 length pants. This is a very easy pattern, great for beginners.

The T shirt pattern is not included as a free pattern but can be purchased from Felicity Sewing Patterns website shop at the discounted price of US $4.00.

To see the full range of delightful kids pdf digital sewing patterns please visit the online shop — https://felicitysewingpatterns.com/                                                                   Find us on Etsy —- https://www.etsy.com/shop/FelicityPatterns?ref=hdr_shop_menu

GETTING STARTED — WHAT YOU NEED

FABRIC: This depends on the finished use of the pants; pyjamas require soft, lightweight cottons or minimal stretch knits e.g. lawn, poplin, flannel or interlock. For day wear any light to medium weight wovens or knits e.g. homespun, drill, pin-wale corduroy and fleecy. Check the fabric chart for the amount of fabric and elastic required. The fabric lengths are based on 112cm/45″ standard fabric width. Lengths are given for the main with contrast option as shown in the tutorial and also for the basic unaltered pant in one fabric only. The elastic is 22 – 25mm or 3/4″ – 1″ wide x the length given on the chart. Matching sewing thread. You can add extra trims e.g. lace, braid or piping.

SIZING: Patterns sizes = 1, 2, 3, 4, 6, 8, 10 to fit kids 1 to 10 years approx. Check the size chart to select the best size for your child based on their height and waist measurements. The leg length can be easily adjusted if necessary.charts-1

PREPARE THE PATTERN                                                            

1/ Print out the pattern pages and glue them together – see the Printing Instructions and Guide to Assembling the Pattern Pages included with the pattern file.1Trace out a paper pattern for the size you want following the colour code. You can do this by tracing with a tracing wheel onto plain paper or using see-through baking paper and trace with a pencil. I think it’s easier to use a tracing wheel so invest in one of these. Tracing the pattern out means you can keep the master pattern intact for future use. Please note that all cutting out instructions, seam and hem allowances and grain lines are marked on the pattern.3  It’s very important to get the grain straight when cutting long pants; the best way to get the perfect straight grain is to fold the pattern in half placing the hem edge perfectly square and equal and then press a cease in along the full length of the leg to get the grain line then mark with a pen and ruler.4Rule a line for the hem turnings and the waist turning these are both 4cm/11/2” wide. Don’t forget the pocket pattern.2Now the basic pattern is ready to use.

PATTERN ADJUSTMENT FOR SEPARATE CUFF

I decided to add a contrast cuff to my basic pants so here’s how to alter the pattern: decide on the width you want; for my size two I used 8cm /3 1/4 inch, this would be a good width for all sizes. Measure up from the hem turning or finished length of the pant and rule a line then add a 1cm/3/8” hem allowance, fold the unwanted part of the pattern under and pin to hold. Do this on back and front. Place the side seams together, overlapping 2cm/¾” and measure the total circumference/length of the hem, 38cm for size 2. Make a pattern for the cuff 38cm x 9cm [the finished cuff width + seam], fold double and cut out. The total pattern dimensions for a size 2 would be 38cm x 18cm. Label “Cut 2”.524NOTE: If you would like a ruffled hem follow the instructions as for the cuff but use a single width not double [e.g 38cm x 10cm] and add extra length for gathering — about half to two thirds — so total pattern dimension of approx 57cm x 10cm for a size 2. Label “Cut 2”.  OK! this is what you should end up with ———6

CUTTING OUT                                                                

I am using the contrast print for the cuffs and pockets. The size 2 just fits nicely into the folded fabric width. If you are using a one-way-up print the patterns must be cut the same way up. The fronts and backs have to be cut paired or mirrored. Refer to the original pattern printout for cutting instructions, grain lines and seam allowance details marked on the pattern.7
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 SEWING THE PANTS

Make the pockets: overlock around the edges. Fold the pocket hem to the outside and sew down at the sides. Turn to the inside, press the seam allowance under all around and sew the pocket hem down. All seam allowances are 1cm/3/8″.9Make the Pants: sew the side seams together, overlock and press. Press the waist casing under so you can see how wide the waist band will be.10Place the pockets on the front at least 6 cm below the finished top edge at the side seam position and about 1cm in from the side seam, pin and sew in place. The pocket position will vary with the size so just make sure it looks balanced.11Sew the centre front and centre back seams, overlock and press. Sew the inside leg seams together matching at the crotch seam, overlock and press.12Pockets stitched on and seams all sewn together.13Attach the cuffs: press each cuff in half lengthways, then check that the cuff and leg measure exactly the same and make any necessary adjustments. Sew the cuff seam and press open.14Fold the cuff in half again and pin to the right side of the leg with the cuff seam at the inside leg seam. Sew in place, overlock and press. On the outside sew a row of topstitching along the seam to hold the seam flat on the underside.15Make the waist casing: The total width of the casing allowance is 4cm/11/2”. For a neat finish press the edge of the casing under 1cm/3/8” and turn casing under along the finished edge line [you pressed this under earlier]. Sew the casing down and sew a row of stitching along the top edge to give a neater finish after the elastic is inserted.

Use a seam ripper to open the centre back seam into the casing and insert the elastic here. Securely stitch the elastic ends and distribute the fullness evenly around the waist. To stop the elastic rolling stitch across the casing through the elastic at the centre front seam.16FINISHED!17

Christmas Tree Applique Sewing Tutorial

Here is a simple easy appliqué that can be used on a T shirt front or on a skirt. I am making a T shirt top to go with my Play Pants so I will apply the appliqué directly to the front of the shirt before I stitch it together. However if you want to add the appliqué to an existing shirt you can construct it onto a square of fabric making it easier to simply sew the square to the front of the shirt. The appliqué comes in two sizes and the template is included in the Play Pants pattern file.

Play Pants and Xmas Tree Applique by Felicity Sewing Patterns 3

MATERIALS REQUIRED

Fabric scraps, iron-on appliqué backing, sewing thread plus you can add extra trimmings e.g. beads, buttons or glitter. Pinking shears if you already have them are best for cutting out the shapes but not essential. I am going to machine stitch my appliqué but if you are an experienced crafter you might prefer to hand sew everything.

Print out the templates and carefully cut them out, use them to cut out pieces of fabric slightly larger than the shape of the template.18Next cut a piece of iron-on backing for each shape and iron this onto the back of the fabric shapes; make sure to use a light pressing cloth or some tissue paper to protect the iron and ironing board. Now each shape will have a paper surface on the back. Use the templates and draw the shapes onto the paper backing, cut them out carefully with sharp scissors or pinking shears. If you are hand sewing it’s best to cut with plain scissors.19Carefully peel the paper backing off and layout the design overlapping each piece a small amount [about 6mm/¼”]; line everything up as though you are following a centre line so you have tree trunk, bottom layer, middle layer, top layer and star. It’s best to do this on the ironing board so there’s no need to move once it’s set in place. When you are happy with the way it looks press it on firmly.2021Now sew around all the edges; use a plain stitch if the edges are pinked or a zigzag if they are plain. To keep it neat stitch each section separately changing thread colour if necessary. Pull the thread ends through to the underside and tie off.2223Makes a cute set of Christmas night pyjamas.Free Pattern blog post Felicity Sewing Patterns Play Pants kids sewing patternscroll